Planting Potatoes – Save Time and Energy with My Top Tips
As a naturopath, nutritionist, and lover of all things natural, gardening has always been one of my greatest joys. This year, I’ve set myself a challenge: growing a wider variety of heritage and specialty potatoes to see just how much I can diversify my harvest.
Potatoes are a winter staple in my household, perfect for hearty, comforting meals. Last year, we grew enough to last 3–4 months, and this year I’m aiming for even more. The taste of freshly harvested potatoes, straight from the earth, is unmatched by any shop-bought alternative. Plus, growing your own gives you complete control over the process, ensuring a chemical-free crop.
If you’re new to potato growing or want to expand your garden’s repertoire, I’m here to guide you through every stage, from choosing varieties to harvesting.
Choosing the Right Varieties
This year, I’m experimenting with a mix of traditional and heritage varieties, each offering unique flavours, colours, and uses:
- Cara: A versatile all-rounder with pink-tinged sprouts, suitable for early or main-crop harvests.
- Maris Piper: A classic, reliable early/second early variety.
- Amber: My go-to for roasting and mashing, thanks to its excellent flavour.
- Ola: A main-crop variety harvested later in the season.
- Colleen: Great for both early and main-crop harvests.
- Heidi Red: A striking heritage potato with red skin and creamy texture.
- Blue Annelise: Distinctive blue-skinned potatoes with a rich, earthy taste.
- Gatsby: A reliable main-crop variety with versatile cooking uses.
- Maris Barel: A dependable main-crop potato with consistent yields.
To enjoy a continuous supply, I’ve chosen a mix of early, second early, and main-crop varieties. Early potatoes are perfect for fresh, summery meals, while main-crop varieties store well for the colder months.
Preparing the Ground
I’ve opted for a no-dig method, building up the soil rather than digging down. This approach preserves soil health and structure while reducing weeds.
- Clear the area: I used a plastic to suppress weeds and debris.
- Add compost: To enrich the soil, I spread grass and compost on top of the potatoes. This will come in handy for earthing up later.
Chitting and Planting
Chitting involves allowing seed potatoes to sprout before planting. I placed mine in shallow mushroom crates for a few weeks to develop sturdy sprouts.
- Planting depths: Early and second-early varieties go 15–20cm (6–8 inches) deep, while main-crops need a bit more at 20–25cm (8–10 inches).
- Spacing: Early varieties are spaced 30cm apart, with rows 50–60cm apart. Main-crops need 40cm between plants but the same row spacing.
Using a bulb planter, I dug uniform holes, placed the chitted potatoes inside, and covered them with soil. This simple, efficient method saves time and effort.
Caring for Your Potatoes
Earthing Up
As the plants grow, I’ll gradually mound soil and add grass clippings around their stems to:
- Encourage more tubers to form.
- Prevent sunlight exposure, which can turn potatoes green and toxic.
- Suppress weeds and retain moisture.
Mulching
Consistent moisture is essential. Applying organic mulch (like straw or compost) helps to retain soil moisture and suppress weeds.
Pest and Disease Management
To avoid problems like blight, I’ve focused on early and second-early varieties, as they’re less susceptible. I’ll monitor plants regularly, as the area I live in is very prone to blight.
Harvesting and Storing
Early varieties are ready around 10–12 weeks after planting. I’ll carefully dig around the base to harvest without damaging the tubers. Main-crop varieties will stay in the ground until late autumn.
After harvest, the potatoes will cure in a cool, dark, well-ventilated spot for a week or two to toughen their skins. Once cured, they’ll be stored in a cool, dark place for the winter.
Ready to Start Your Potato Journey?
I hope this inspires you to try growing your own potatoes. It’s a rewarding way to connect with nature while enjoying delicious, chemical-free produce.
Happy planting!